Well, a mild case of heartburn from Taco Bell  after a fun night out, but I got over it quickly….

THIS time I had decided that I would leave for Guatemala City EARLY in the morning so as to be well into m hotel before the sunset.  This did not mean I didn’t get lost again as I circled the city three times, and had to ask directions twice.  But I made it to the hotel at the easy hour of around 1:00…I had followed the advice of some other overlander’s to the Quality Service, a dynamite spot central and safe with excellent parking.   And I would highly recommend the place for anyone visiting the city for value and location.

The owner had lived in the US, and was very friendly with help and advice on places to go around the hotel.

My first day out, I ventured over to 6th avenue, along pedestrian shopping boulevard, very European in feel, with a calm, relaxed vibe, and even Michael Jackson impersonators!  I enjoyed strolling along, looking in the shops, and just being a part of the action.   This was definitely not the war zone that I had been warned so intensely to avoid.  Just folks out strolling and shopping, enjoying the time together.

6th Avenue shopping

6th Avenue shopping

Interestingly, I was sitting at an open corner cafe watching the people strolling by and some crews were taking down a section of the Christmas wire.  They would keep pulling it up, and people would trip if they happened to be in that spot.  But, an amazing thing would happen.  Nothing.  The folks would just go on about their day, and the crews would just trip the next people (unintentionally of course).  Can we say lawsuit in US? Canada?  But here, people just kept doing their thing, unconcerned as it seemed no one was really getting hurt.

Guatemala centro

Guatemala Centro

After a day on my own, I met up again with William, who was also meeting up with Alexandre, another couchsurfer from Montreal, and took us on a whirlwind tour of the downtown area, the main square, a huge park in the city, and a stroll down one of the main boulevards that is closed on Sundays so families can be out skating, walking, lounging, and even horseback riding for the children!  And once again, I found myself almost ashamed for even having the slightest thought of passing by and missing these wonderful spots in the city!

Casa Presidential main square

Guatemala City was the scene of the declaration of independence of Central America from Spain, and became the capital of the United Provinces of Central America in 1821.  The main square is truly breathtaking.  HUGE and stately, again, with many families out enjoying the vendors and each others’ company.

Church in the main square (yes, its a Church not a bank...)

Inside the Church

Main square

Around centro

Then the following evening, I met up with William again, and his friend Jorge for a night on the town.  Our first stop a cozy bar with live music that literally reminded me of the Victory Cafe in Toronto, great spot with an incredible vibe!  And after we finished off at another bar down the street from there in a area lined with great places to go!  Great fun and great folks!!  Unfortunately I hear from William that Jorge’s camera had been stolen, so unfortunately no party pics!!  Bummer!!

Next day we headed to the mercado for some Guatemalan fare where its the best!!  Busy, chaotic, overcrowded, one of my favorite places to be!!

Entering the mercado

Lunch in the mercado

At the mercado artisanal section

Quaint white church in the park overlooking the city

Overlooking the city

We also stopped by William’s house and enjoyed some Guatemala fruit desert that was delicious!

Soon it was time to move on from Guatemala City.  I had made the decision to go on to El Salvador based on some recommendations I received from some other road trippers, despite, once again, the portrayal in the media.  I felt more comfortable going on the advice of folks that had actually been there than folks reading from a television prompter or writing a story from their desk in the newsroom.

I was also lucky enough to get in contact with John, a local in San Salvador, originally from Toronto who would be able to help me locate a spot to stay and show me around the city a bit.  He has lived in San Salvador for 4 years and writes a blog on the experience, and in my research I came across his article about driving in the city, and sent a note on the article.

I also found out that Alexandre, the couchsurfer from Montreal, was headed the same way hitchhiking, so I gave him a ride along, and soon we were off toward the El Salvador border!

On to El Salvador!

Guatemala City definitely became a memorable part of my trip thanks in a large part to William, who really takes pride in his city, and the potential within it.  The city should be paying him as an ambassador to so many visitors who I’m sure, leave with a great experience and likely spread the word that is can be a very fun and interesting place to visit.  Now, lest anyone take my writing too generally, I will advise that there are definitely parts of the city that should not be explored.  Even during the daylight hours.   In relation, it is only the same caution that a traveler would take in many large capitals around the world.  But otherwise, with a regular travelers caution, there is absolutely no reason not to go and enjoy Guatemala City and on the cutting edge of knowing a culturally rich city with great people that many others miss!

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How beautiful is Antigua?

So beautiful evidently I was in so much awe that I neglected to take a ton of photos as most anyone visiting this amazing place would!  So my apologies in this post!

After an extremely frustrating, unexpectedly delayed detour through Guatemala city, I finally rolled into Antigua about 9:00…and was immediately greeted by the warm sight of cobblestone streets, dim coach lights, and meticulously renovated homes and businesses of Spanish architecture.  And after the hard day, I was lucky enough that the first hotel I pulled up to, was reasonable with parking nearby that I could use.  Hooray!  Rest!

The first night was interesting as the old hotel I was in was quite large with me being the only one.  What made this more interesting was that the nice Mayan woman and her daughter that take care of things leave at 7:00.  So it was just me in the place for the night.  Very strange as the medieval streets were dead quiet outside, and the top portion of the back of the hotel was open, so all the subtle noises of the night could be heard easily int he room.  It was a bit eery, but seemed to just fit perfectly the mood of the first night.

In the day though, of course, this was different.  Having the kitchen to myself, I was off to the market for some eggs and bread for french toast (as came my routine for most of the week).  But of course, walking into the town square amongst the hustle and bustle of the work crowd shuffling, I just had to spend some quality time with a Guatemalan Espresso…

Looking out onto the square

Looking out on the square different vantage point

Antigua definitely is the type of town for lingering.  As always, I found my favorite cafe in the town square and found myself so often relaxing with a coffee just watching the world go by.  Antigua, although without a doubt, heavily occupied by camera wielding, tour taking, souvenir shopping tourists, still had the right amount of authenticity.  Common life was still going on, all one had to do was walk 10 blocks or so out of the center (Antigua is not very big) to blend in with the routine.

And perhaps this could help explain why my pictures were lacking.  At this point in my trip it seemed, I was beginning yearn for a break from documenting my activity, and merely disappear.  I think Antigua makes you feel in a way that you can have the ability to do just that.  To drift.  To get caught in the romance of the dim night lights and cobblestone and forget.  To sit and gaze.  And that can sometimes be the trouble with documenting, because it binds you to the present and who you are, or have been.  Because even the act of sharing a picture, imparts your commentary in the angle, or subject choice.  The only way to disappear is to say nothing.  Perhaps the heart of Antigua inspires more fiction, and you can’t create that with a camera.

I absolutely love sharing pictures mind you!  But in the town at least, Antigua was my fiction perhaps…

Kickin it old school

Quiet afternoon

Aside from daydreaming in Antigua, I did want to explore some of the beautiful area surrounding as well, so I decided to sign on for a coffee plantation tour of course, one of my favorite things!!!  I will give a mini-tour of the plantation though!

I thought this would be an amazing place for my first coffee plantation tour, I’m sure I will go to others!!  This particular plantation, R Dalton Coffee, is one of the oldest in Antigua, and produce the Filadelfia brand coffee.   The aim for quality is extremely high here, only specializing in the finer quality Arabica beans.  Since I am writing this far behind the time, I will leave a link to the site that details the company and processes better than my memory can supply!  It was an aamazing tour that really allowed me to see firsthand all the incredibly detailed steps that go into producing what we might drink at Starbucks (Yes, they sell to Starbucks, so you might just be drinking their coffee!)

Company info

ready to start!

Carefully grafted little guys

Pickers are paid by the pound, not the hour

The beans catching some rays

Aliens? No, just the beans drying with style

The Arabicas magically fall to the left

Final elimination round (BY HAND!!)

Yes, here where each bag is, sits women that catch the imperfect beans as they go along a conveyer.  I’m hoping the company supplies new glasses every year!

Roasting, almost there!!

Enjoying the final product at the cafe overlooking the grounds

I would have not imagined the multitude of tedious steps that go into every cup!  It is impossible to visit a coffee plantation and not come away with an amazing appreciation for fine crafted coffee, no matter what your normal level of consumption.  And I must add that the Antiguan coffee was most delicious!  Definitely some of the best I’ve had!!

Strolling Antigua

Soon it would be time to head off to Guatemala city, but first I met up with William, a couchsurfer from Guatemala City who gave me an awesome whirlwind tour around Antigua, pointing out the many fine places that I had missed!  We would meet again in Guatemala City dodging danger at every curve, lucky to escape with our lives!!

Well, not exactly.  Okay, not even a dirty look.   But it was still exciting!!

Next time, the perilous journey into Guatemala City!

(And more pictures, I promise!)

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So the plan was now to head down through central Guatemala and head over to Antigua.  Followed the signs pointing toward Guatemala City and realized before too long that something didn’t quite feel right.  Took out the trusty GPS and sure enough, I was heading an opposite way.   I should know better than to trust street signs at this point, but hey, Rio Dulce seemed like it wouldn’t be too far, and I heard it was something to see, so why not?

When I arrived at Rio Dulce, what I seemed to see was murky water, and generally depressing atmosphere.   I’m not entirely sure, but I’m guessing I rolling through during low season, as there did seem to be quite a bit of boats docked and there was the air about that festive times were hiding somewhere.

With not much to do, I found a great little little rustic cabin off on its own that was quite charming…and with a thunderstorm that evening, it was a good night to stay in….

All to myself..

The Rio Dulce...

Not exactly looking like a party

Well, before long I though better to get back on the road and head on to Antigua, which I heard so much about!

Took off in the afternoon to head to Guatemala City as it didn’t seem like too far of a drive.  About half way there, I happened to notice right after a small town some signs that seemed to indicate there may be some interesting tourist sights right around the corner so I decided there was time for a brief detour to check it out.

After the turn, I started driving into a very small village.  Unfortunately although it was quite small it seemed to look the same, it was off the GPS grid, and I was officially lost.  Not too big of a concern because it was small enough that it shouldn’t be too tough to get out.  Pulled up to some folks at a food stall to ask directions, very nice folks and seemed so happy and excited to give directions.

I headed off to get going on the right track this time and just ended up doing a circle.  Luckily, two of the girls had started to walk after me with a map (maybe guessing I would get lost?) and told me to come back and their father would give me more detailed directions out and to Antigua.  So I followed them and after the entire neighborhood came out to talk for almost an hour, I was on my way.  But an amazing time talking as best I could with my poor Spanish and such a great feeling at their excitement to have a visitor.

I was able to obtain an email address from the one person that had it, and was able to send a picture a few days after.  Then I received the nicest response back inviting me to lunch, but unfortunately I would be quite far away at that time.

It was this type of wrong turn that will remain one of my favorite moments, in that these folks, that had very little were so excited to help, so happy to talk and joke, and so willing to extend an invitation to share a meal, regardless of how humble.

Such warm folks!

Back on the road after being warned about going through Guatemala City, I ended up in Guatemala City about an hour before sunset.  Hmmm, to stop before or go through?  Well, luckily, an English speaking local at the gas station assured me there is no problem, very easy to go through the periferico that goes around the city within 10 minutes…easy….no problem!

I’m beginning to learn what “no Problem” really means…..

For some reason, I kept going in circles and the sun was setting.  I had been warned by many about being the wrong zone after nightfall, and for the second time, I told myself no more going into big cities later in the day.  You just never know how long its going to take to navigate through.  I must say, the hospitality was impressive though as I had three different folks try their best to help me out with directions, the last gent even offering for me to follow his family as they were going a similar way, then I would take a turn and go the opposite way.  Only thing is, when he started signaling me to turn, not a soul would let me turn!  On and around again I went.  Luckily, finally I turned into the highway going into Antigua and never breathed so easy rolling onto the magical cobblestone streets of Antigua around 9:00 after a very frustrating evening driving!

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So a short drive from Tikal, I stopped off on the Isla de Flores, actually on my way to Coban, which seemed like a good stopping point for New Years.  My first stop in Flores was a great little coffeeshop called cool beans.  I really wish I had taken a picture as the place had a charming rustic decor, and a back counter that faced the water, very nice for having a cup of Joe and whiling the time away.  While I was there, I struck up a conversation with the owners, who gave me some sound advice regarding being on the highways while all the festivities would be occurring, and told me that actually Flores would be quite alive for New Years, so I thought I would take a look around and maybe stay.  I am a sucker for any cool coffeeshop I can sit at and spend some time.

I immediately found the colonial island charming and wondered why I had read so many reviews from others claiming that there wasn’t much here worth attention!  I stopped into the Lacondon Hotel, extremely reasonable with a fantastic balcony overlooking the lake.  Sold.  I’ll hang out here for the holiday.

Bridge entering Flores

View from the Balcony!!

The isla is quite small, about a 45 minute walk will take you all the way around, mostly accented with a  nice malecon for walking along.  The vibrant colors and unique appearance of the homes lined along many narrow alleyways and streets really kept me wanting to walk around exploring, and again, I could not understand how anyone would not want to spend a few days on this little lake island.

Flores malecon

Colorful Flores

I was thoroughly enjoying Flores when I had the luck to make acquaintance with Marissa from Guatemala City who was in Flores at the hotel for the New Years vacation to relax on the island.  We decided to go check out some of the festivities for a bit and were lucky enough join in on an interesting procession led by children that was walking the streets looking for gifts from the houses as they went by.  As soon as they spotted a house ahead that was willing, a boy from the lead would run up and shoot off some commercial quality fireworks to announce the donation.  Then they would briefly go int he house, accept the gift and continue along.  We followed along for a bit as it was quite entertaining!

Following along with the procession

It was decided that tomorrow would be a quiet New Years day, so probably a good time to check out some of the caves that were nearby.  Marissa was a bit more prepared than I, but I still managed!  We also met up with Gavin, from Ireland, on his way back the reverse way I was going and when the caving was finished, drove over to a great outdoor zoo in a beautiful setting not too far.

Time to explore some caves!

Marissa was ready for caving

Me not so much, but I did have a flashlight, so all is good!!

Then the three of us hopped int he truck to take a ride over to the zoo and check out the animals, huge Zoo situated around a beautiful lake

Me and Gavin keeping an eye out that the tiger stays put

OK, you just stay over there please

These little guys were running all over the place...fast critters

After the zoo, it was time for all of us to head back to Flores where we said our goodbyes, and thanked each other for the good company and fun times.  Definitely a day better enjoyed with new friends.

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So after parting ways with my friend Evert, I had one more afternoon in San Ignatio, and it was time to start planning for the border crossing to Guatemala.  Its hard to explain the stomach churning and anxiety that starts building up when you think of the chaos of these land crossings, where you don’t know the language, and nothing would still make sense even if you did!

Forget any image of the highly organized and directed land borders of Canada, the US, and even Mexico (barely)….the rules at any Central American borders seem to change at the whim of the official you are speaking to and whether their team one the game the previous day.

But, this is what I signed on for….

I was admittedly just a wee bit intimidated by the machine gun wielding soldiers at their posts for taking pictures, hopefully I can muster enough courage to take some pics att he next borders.  I think picture taking is a little less intimidating in these situations when you are not solo.

I was soon approached by a group of fellows who annoyingly run after people entering hoping to help them along with their crossing for a tip.  I felt that as this was my first real experience, I would go ahead and get his assistance to flow through, plus he spoke English which helped considerably.

We soon proceeded to the front of the first line (bonus), then to make copies, then to return, then the official to match the numbers to my truck, then back inside, then official stamp, then more copies, and pay fee at the bank (again moving tot he front of the line to the displeasure of the 15 people in line, sorry guys!  I didn’t know that was some of what I was paying for!)  Seems my helper explained to the guard at the bank that he was helping me, and the papers were handed in tot he bank directly by machine-gun holding guy….

Finally it seems like we are finished and I ask where I buy the car insurance and no one knows, Hmmm, no option for insurance it seems, then I am told I must buy it in Flores, so I suppose I will just have to drive very carefully (I actually made it through Guatemala without it because it was just too damn hard to find where to buy it!)

My helper asks me if I need gas before heading on and indeed I do, so he offers me to follow him.  Here I begin to get just a wee bit nervous, but the chap generally seems like a good guy, I’ll just keep a good distance behind in case an immediate action is necessary.   Admittedly, the chaos begins.  Nope, not in Belize anymore….not much for lanes in this small town, and cars just every which way that is convenient.  We pull into the gas station, which I would have never found, and I ask to fill it up.  He asks me if I need the ATM, that one I think I’ll pass on.  Finished there, and he offers to take me as far as the highway to Tikal to send me on my way, and I tip him about 15 dollars.  I figure the hour we spent at the border easily would have have been 3 or more…plus the help finding the gas which I really needed!  However as I’m following I again wonder where I’m being lead, especially since my friend is paid now, again traveling just a ways behind…..

But alas, the road starts getting much better, the landscape incredibly green and beautiful, and in general, my nerves start to relax and enjoy the ride.   The unfortunate part of doing this trip solo is that it is tough to get pictures while driving and soon I hot mild rain making it harder (but I will have countryside pictures coming in a later post!)

So here is some video!  Its not crazy interesting, but maybe can show an impression of all the green and solitude!!  ( I am still trying to get the video placed better, please let me know if you cannot see it!!)

GuatTikal 162

A little ways before arriving at Tikal, I did stop for lunch beside a picturesque stretch of lake.

Countryside along the way to Tikal

Almost there!

Finally!

Arriving in Tikal, you think you’re there when you reach gates of course?  Wrong, another 17km drive through the rainforest before reaching the final destination where sleeping accommodations and entrance to the hiking trails are.   Tikal is not just one of the largest Mayan cities in the Americas, but an entire National Park with many protected species running freely.  Speedsmust be kept to 40kms due to the animals running freely. (All I was able to see were the turkeys!).

Finally reaching the Jaguar Inn, I parked my car and proceeded to make the arrangements for camping int he truck in the truck.  Most were camping out in tents supplied by the restaurant/hotel, but at my $3/night, I was more than happy to “rough it” a bit more!  Although for those who need more comforts, you could easily get a room in the cabana and dine in the restaurant.  Not me!

Quiet night at the Jaguar (This was the ONLY night I had the place to myself!) Very popular!

Cooking some pasta in Tikal

Getting my "room" ready for the evening under the stars in Tikal

So the next day, I am up early, can’t help it as the light and the noises from the monkey’s leave you no choice!  Time to get up, get ready and head out to see the Pyramids!

Entering the hiking trails to see the main points of the "city" of Tikal

These little guys were fast! Wish I could remember what they were called!

But the real amazing sights came when hiking around the plazas!  The residential area covers about 23 sq miles, so I only hiked a small portion, and even that took me almost all day!!!  To cover all the plazas, and also see all the small carvings and ruins, one could easily spend a week!  And wiki claims there are over 3000 structures (some very small) within the park. With many still uncovered!

Steep climb! Couldn't go up this one, but climbed its sister on the other side

The view from the tallest structure, breathtaking

So different from the Yucatan ruins, so green

Tikal was quite the experience, tiring and intense exercise, but a unique experience to see the contrasts within the Mayan kingdom.  And a special treat to be able to see it before everything disappears in 2012!!

Now it was time to head to nearby Flores Island to relax a bit and spend a Guatemaltec News Years Eve before heading on to Antigua…

No captions on this gallery, just a mix of random shots from the park…

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Well, this post finally gets me into Belize, but……..not without one last bit of surprise from Mexico…..

I had arranged to meet my friend Evert, who was going to Belize about the same time as me in Playa Del Carmen and then continue on into Belize.  Evert is very familiar with the country so it was a good opportunity to spend some time with a good friend and enjoy the country.

As I underestimated the time to drive from Merida to Playa Del Carmen (typical in Mexico) I arrived in Playa a bit late, and took a breather from the driving while we met up and chatted about things so far in my favorite cafe, Ah Cacao.  Just some of the best chocolate I’ve had anywhere!  After about an hour, we were off and heading our way to the border to get cross into Belize by evening and grab a place to stay.

Unfortunately, Mexico wasn’t ready for me to leave.  As part of the car importation, a hefty deposit (just under $400) was left with the Mexican government to be refunded to my credit card upon exit, to ensure my car left with me and wasn’t sold to to some lucky buyer in Mexico.  Not a problem really, unless of course, you find out the office closes at 5:00 and it is 6:30!   Hmmm, who knew a border office in Chetumal, one of the busiest offices, because of the free zone, would close way before the actual border closes!  So technically, we could leave, but my car could not.

Luckily Evert speaks Spanish so we appealed to many other people at the border, only being told “it’s no problem, there are plenty of hotels in Chetumal and you can go tomorrow”.   Okay, so maybe that laid-back “manana” Mexican attitude isn’t always charming.  Looks like we will be exploring Chetumal tonight.

Although Chetumal was fairly uneventful, I found it a nice town to spend the evening in, perhaps because it was so close to Christmas and the festivities were everywhere, very lively.  But the main order of business was trying to get over the border.  So here we are the next morning ready to give it another go.

This time, much smoother.  The only hiccup being an attempt to overcharge us for exit fees, only to be asked directly after, if I “worked for the government.”  Hmmm, I wonder if those reduced fees should have been “no” fees possibly…..note to self, in the future if corruption is suspected, find a way to work into the conversation an imaginary governmental title.

Well, goodbye Mexico…..and Hello Belize…….

We are greeted by Belizean border officials who inform me that all my contents need to be unloaded and carried into the office for inspection.   This is not pleasant to hear as the truck is obviously quite loaded.  After minutes of conversation, they give in and compromise with just a few bags.  And one, who happens to havehis own rap CD, provides some entertainment with a creativerap celebrating Belizean women.  I have a feeling this will be the only border where I am entertained by customs officials rapping.  But we’ll see.

Shortly after finishing the border, we rolled into Corozal town to have some lunch and I was more than happy to sample the rice and beans, one of my Jamaican favorites in Toronto, with of course a bit different flavor…

So close to Mexico, but feeling like so far away

Corozal town immediately provides a more Carribbean welcome after coming from Mexico.  Hearing English after so long is somewhat nice relief, although some of the creole requires a bit of extra attention to comprehend.  But this close to the border, there is a still a relative mix of Latino/Carribbean culture, so it serves as a nice transition into the southern part of the country.

However, you can immediately feel the pace slow down, or just about come to a halt after being in fast paced Mexico.  No one is in any kind of hurry to get anything done here.   And aside from the town square with a small amount of hustle and bustle, there just isn’t a whole lot going on.   Which means this will be more a stop rough for some food, and then we’re off!

Yup, its as quiet as it looks..

So onto our next sleepy city of Orange Walk, just a quick jump out to try a bit of food, and then continue on again!!  Keep in mind, Belize is a small country that you can drive through in about 6 hours!

Orange walk town hall

Home cooking in the park

Next on to Belmopan, the capital, for a quick errand visit for Evert, and once again a feeling of just how isolated this little county is.  Even within the capital, the “mall” is a store about the size of Zellers/Target, with everything from TV’s to cereal, so the “one stop shop” for the city.  And the closest the country comes to any large shopping.  If you are a shopper, or don’t do well without easy convenience, look somewhere else my friend.  Belize is not your cup of tea.  Luckily, I’m not much of a shopper, but thought it was interesting to point out.

Although not one of prettiest cities, the decision was made to check out Belize city.  Although known to be a bit gritty, and requiring some caution, I was certain that as the hub of activity for the country, there would be plenty to experience.  Driving through at night, my first impression was that most of the descriptions previously given were spot on.  crazy, chaotic, and a bit sketchy, but most definitely alive with activity.  But then, as I continue to witness in this trip, driving into new cities at night most often does not give a fair shake to the place.

But we made it through, and yes, the next morning, it seemed just a bit calmer (just a bit)…but luckily a lot less sketchier.

Yes, this is the main terminal bus station

I forgot what we had for lunch, but it was super fried, yummy, and deifinitely NOT fast

Because you never know when you might run low on poison

Interestingly, Belize city has a network of canals that run through it, reminiscent of Amsterdam on a much smaller scale.  And unfortunately, a much less picteresque scale.  It is a shame there doesn’t seem any concern int he city toward tourism, or to clean and renovate, because you can just feel the hidden charm of the city just wanting to peek through.

While in Belize City, we took the ferry to the famous San Pedro island (Madonna/La Isla Bonita) to relax on the beach for a short time.  As seemed to happen, I forgot my camera for this overnight trip, and such a bummer because it was a charming little town, different than I expected, as I pictured fancy development, but the main walk remains rustic and authentic, and definitely a world away from Belize City.  But although I really enjoyed the scene, beach life is not really my thing, so time to continue the journey through the country!

So, time to leave Belize City and definitely leaving the city leaves you with a say, disturbing feeling as you drive through the main cemetary.  Yes, not around, or by, but through.   I guess no one is really resting in peace?

Don't mind us, just passing through....

If zombies ever do appear, these are going to be a might peeved...

So at this point, you’re wondering, okay, you’re in Belize, where is all the nature?   Thats all there is in Belize!  So much so that I think yours truly was a little lax on taking enough photos since there was more just around the corner!  I know, terrible!  However, I’ll throw some your way…

Typical long stretch of jungle in Belize

Bamboo by the side of the road

Looks like Ms. Bertha is on Belizean time...no tamales for us

Next stop was Dangriga, a bit of a drive and semi-isolated, I was looking forward to experiencing some of Belize’s truly authentic Carribean culture.  We pulled into Dandriga after dark (once again) and it was obvious within five seconds that this was not a tourism hotspot.  We immediately knew that everyone else knew that we were not from here.  But this is part of the experience, sot he search for a hotel began.

We found some quite interesting cabanas run by a local family that seemed to offer quite an experience, but unfortunately as we were climbing the steps we found an unfortunate soul hiding underneath presumably suffering from some withdrawal, which was quite creepy in the dark.  OK, maybe best look for another spot and hope this is not a common sight on this visit.

Finally found a decent spot right next tot he ocean, that was completely empty it seemed.  Not the fanciest, but I have to mention it because this was the view directly from the room:

Good morning Dangriga, view from the room

Even front row parking...

Unfortunately, it would appear again that I have no other pictures of Dangriga, although I remember taking some.  So if more pictures of Belize magically appear, I will promise now to revise the post with them!  The best way for me to sum up Dangriga is that it feels to me what Jamaica probably feels like (although I have never been, so not sure).  There is an extremely laid back pace, a similar sounding music on the streets, with the exception maybe being the creole language, which even bears some resemblance to Jamaican patois.  Along with the most popular cuisines, fried chicken and Chinese food everywhere.   In fact, another interesting note in Dangriga, and most of Belize for that matter, was that prevalence of Asian business owners.  I think it would be safe to say that 85% of the towns convenience stores are Asian owned and operated, quite interesting to see.

Further along the way, we stopped into the coolest cafe/coffeeshop (those of you that know me, know spending time in cafes is one of my all time favorite activities) just along the highway seemingly in the middle of nowhere.  The owner was a relocated German woman who married a Belizean and they now run the cafe together.   It was a nice chat and inspiring to hear her commitment to a labor of love such as the cafe, even though she admitted that at times, it has been a struggle, as there is not a ton a traffic coming through, but as Belize only continues to gain in popularity with travelers discovering all its natural wonder (not shopping malls) she hopes to continue along and enjoy the slower pace of life Belize offers.

A little mix of Germany and Belize...

And now for the final stop in Belize, which will be San Ignatio Town, a popular tourist/backpacker destination.   And once again, it would seem that I am lacking pictures that I could swear I took, so I will have to leave this Belize post with some shots of the hotel in San Ignatio, this will be the last stop before heading back into “Latin America”.  Last chance for Carribean style rice and beans!

Although we had a great time in Belize, I do think for me it may have been just a little too quiet, little too remote.  But to each his own, as there is a large growing influx of expats choosing to come to Belize and relax, which would be an understatement.

Now onto my first really challenging border crossing into Guatemala without assistance!  (and with little Spanish)  I would be lying if I said I didn’t feel just a bit nervous so wish me luck!  Need to get used to the process!

Next post from Tikal, Guatemala!

UPDATE!!  Found the missing pictures I was looking for, whew~~~!!!

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My days in Mexico are coming sadly to a close with my last stop being Merida Mexico.  Since I have visited Merida before and my friend Marisol lives there, I will be taking the opportunity to attend to some necessities on the truck, matters back home and further preparations that the travel so far has brought to my attention, as had a good idea would happen.  I considered Mexico my “test country” to fully realize what works so far and what hasn’t worked that great.  The luxury of gracious accommodations assistance will afford me some well-needed extended time to attend to business as well.

The one thing that one learns quickly on this type of endeavor is that this is not a vacation.  Is it fun?  Yes!  Is it unbelievable at times?  Absolutely!  BUT, it is also a lot of work.  Rather than taking a break from life and routine, you are simply trading for another routine.  An almost “anti-routine”, that is effectively a routine in itself.  Boy, did that sound confusing. There are days where the entire day is spent route planning, researching, accomodation searching, meal planning, finances, vehicle maintenance and a miriad of other things that would not be part of an all-inclusive resort vacation.  And add to that 95% of the time it is in a foreign language.

No. This is work a lot of the time.  But that doesn’t mean its not enjoyable.  And it definitely does not mean its not rewarding.  The excitement is the challenge.

But back to fun stuff.  Driving in Campeche and Yucatan, one of the most noticeable differences along the highway is that many exits, rather than, or in addition to, having signs for beaches, or campsites, they have a small picture representing that there are pyramids close by.  Yea, many exits have pyramids you can just go ahead and drive to and take a look.  In Toronto, sometimes we have the streetcar museum, or Chudley’s farm, but here, you can go ahead and take a detour to drive to the pyramids.  So of course, we did…..

Edzna ruins in Campeche

Hardly anyone around, silence among the pyramids

Then driving into Campeche, Campeche was a real delight.  I had heard of this small city, but again, the Mexican colonial style just charmed.  Campeche was one of the most colorful Centro’s I believe I have seen thus far.  With a small malecon that was quite pretty that I hadn’t expected.  I haven’t heard much of this city, but honestly think there should be more said!  Very enjoyable!

Streets of Campeche Centro

Rainbow of houses

Campeche malecon

So unfortunately I am actually writing this much later than my actual visit, and with Merida being a longer visit, the chronology may be jumbled, but it should give you a nice picture of this beautifully charming city, that again, is probably not as known as it should be.  If you get the chance to go, put down what the paper is telling you, as Merida is quite safe, I would venture to say, safer even than my hometown of St Louis.

Upon the suggestion of Marisol’s brother, we visited a beach a short distance from the port town of Progresso, North of Merida, for my first time “beach cruising”!!  A blast to take the 4×4 on the sand mounds, and such a beautiful setting with again, almost no one on the beach!!

Playing in the sand

Testing the Xterra

Unfortunately, there was more work to be done to the truck as well.  Thankfully the overheating was finally resolved with the rad repair.  But the a/c was now not working after a recharge in St Louis evidently didn’t do the trick.  So the truck was taken to a small house for repair work and the guys repaired the truck in the drive after much negotiation and back and forth.  And of course trying to find the right part.  Evidently, even though Xterra’s are quite common in Mexico,some parts have very minor differences from their US/Canadian counterparts.  Hmmmm, wonder why the auto companies would do that? But eventually it was resolved.  Now just minor things like repairing a driving light, tinting the windows, routine oil change, etc….as parts may get increasingly difficult to source the further away the Xterra gets.

• Deep tint (2) windows
• Medium tint (2) windows
• Deep tint sunroof

Total $45

Gotta love Mexico!

Spending time in Merida is interesting in that the culture here is uniquely different than any other area of Mexico due to a somewhat isolated location in the country.  You can hear it in how the language is spoken (although I had to have help identifying as my ears are not as attuned to Spanish enough yet), you can see it in traditional dress, architecture, and a genuine warmth in smiles of people and conversation that truly welcomes visitors.

According to Wikipedia, Mérida has one of the largest centro historico districts in the Americas (surpassed only by Mexico City and Havana, Cuba).   And you can feel it walking the streets.  It is not as polished as some other centros in Mexico because of its size, but you can easily spot throughout downtown the many historical homes that have been restored to their former glories.

Restored charmers

Not a house now, but some of the old mansions are just amazing

Some of the finest can be seen on Paseo De Monteo, which truly has you believing you are in Europe strolling amongst the wide beautiful tree lined boulevard of French and Italian architecture.   Of course, on this stretch, the majority of these massive mansions now are businesses.

Paseo de Monteo mansion

Merida splendour

And so much tdo in Merida, one of my favorites on the weekend was how the city closes the streets in the Zocolo and everyone comes out to eat, drink, and be merry with friends and family.  Such a lively scene in the streets!!

Food and fun in Zocolo!

Kissing chairs found in many of the parks and boulevards in Merida

I also had the special pleasure of being in Merida on December 12th, on which I share my Birthday with one of the biggest celebrations int he country!  For accuracy, Wikipedia describes the festival:

According to Roman Catholic tradition, on December 9, 1531, Juan Diego, a recently converted Aztec indigenous peasant, had a vision of a young woman while he was on a hill in the Tepeyac desert, near Mexico City. The lady asked him to build a church exactly on the spot where they were standing. He told the local Bishop Juan de Zumarraga, who asked for proof in exchange.

Juan Diego went back later and saw the lady again. He told her that the bishop wanted proof, and she instructed Juan Diego to go to the mountain top, where he found Castillian roses,^[2] which were native to Bishop Juan de Zumarraga‘s hometown and could not possibly bloom during wintertime. Juan Diego cut the roses, placed them in his apron-like tilma and returned to the bishop; an imprint of the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared on the tilma from the residue of the soil and roses.

This is quite amazing to see as folks travel far and wide to bring offerings to the Virgin.  Some travelling by bicycle or even walking for hours!  (I drove admittedly)

Riding from hours away to bring gifts to the Virgin

Visiting the Virgin

Decked out for the event

Leaving the city for a daytrip, we explored some lesser known ceynotes with the help of a guide from one of the small towns.  This was awesome in that some of these smaller ones are not marked and would be near impossible to find without assistance.  The Ceynotes are sinkholes where the rock has collapsed opening up to the groundwater below and were believed by some Maya to be gateways to the underworld below, adding some mystique to any visit.  However, in more practical terms, they are amazingly cool and refreshing for swimming on incredible humid Yucatan days!

Ceynote swimming!

View from the top

Lesser frequented ceynote, watch your step!!

And a random food photo!  Mole poblano sauces in the supermarket deli!  So many great varieties, I opted for the Oaxacan Oscuro, delicioso!!  This is a complex sauce with over 20 ingredients and very labor intensive to make from complete scratch, as it involves raosting and grinding ingredients.   Mole can include black pepper, achiote, guaje cumin, cloves, anise, tomatoes, tomatillos, garlic, sesame seeds, dried fruit, hoja santa, chocolate, and many others.   This is a definite “must-try” when in the Yucatan!  Actually, with many varieties, don’t just try one!

MMmmm, Mole!

And I even tried my own hand at some Mexican cooking!  Sopes (I didn’t make the tortilla though, lol) with nopale (cactus) and chicharron, cream, and cheese.  It is IMPOSSIBLE to ever get tired of eating Mexican food!

Preparing the nopale and chicharron

My Mexican cooking!

So my time in Merida, and Mexico comes to a close unfortunately and soon I will head on To Belize.  I had originally planned for 45 days in this country, and have stayed a little over 2 months.  I have learned the true extent of how interestingly diverse this huge country really i, my time even being too short to fully experience every region.  Six months even could be spent here easily to fully appreciate the amazing culture exuding from every street corner.

During my final time here, I also wanted to extend a huge heartfelt thank you to Marisol and her family for including me in several amazingly tasty meals, family get-togethers, and helping me find this or that in the city or complete my errands.  Having their help was a huge benefit to me and I will miss their hospitality greatly as I continue my journey.

random observations about Mexico:

Food and family are everything.  

Life is never too serious to crack a joke

There are a thousand Mexican dishes/variations you probably haven’t tried

Formalities, manners, and respect are important.  Treating others with kindness is frequent and expected.

* However, manners are less important if one is joking, than nothing is off limits.  This means most are able to take jokes and laugh at themselves easily.

You probably know much less about Mexico than you think  

It is rare to need help in Mexico and not be able to find it.

Be careful whose advise you buy about Mexico.   There is a good chance they have never really visited.

As for me, Central America awaits in the next post!!  On to Belize!

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Nothing can quite prepare you for the awesome views and amazing scenery in the mountains of Chiapas.

Nothing.

Driving on constantly changing slopes winding and twisting through the clouds themselves while Mayan villagers walk cattle and carry items along the roadside, and cornfields grow on the sides of mountain.  It is nothing short of amazing.  And the feeling of exiting the real world for a while is an understatement.  There is a calm.  A slowness.  Almost a pause in time where you can just stop and listen.  And just be.

Mayans in the mountains

Lake in the mountains

A moment to breathe in the clouds

Arriving in San Cristobal, there is still the feeling that you’ve escaped time.  Glorious buildings, narrow streets lit up after dark, with a laid-back vibe and easy pace that yet again feels different from any place in Mexico.  At this point, as I wind down Mexico, it feels like I have traveled dozens of countries,experiencing handfuls of cultures.  But that is Mexico.

In San Cristobal, the medieval setting combines with the Indigenous culture to create an atmosphere very unique to Oaxaca.  But yet, I counted not less than 20 cafes, a very European bohemian  vibe thrives here and the combination is pure magic.

San Cristobal square

Street vendors

My friend Marisol early morning shopping in the colorful streets

Leaving San Cristobal was difficult.  Music every night, beautiful architecture, amazing food…..the city will seduce you.  As you say goodbye and look back over your shoulder, not once or twice, but three or four times unsure as to whether to leave or disappear into streets becoming the city.  But of course, there are destinations still to reach, so goodbye is a duty that cannot be helped.

Ont he road to Merida leaving San Cristobal before heading out of the mountains, a quick stop was made to a roadside house where a Mayan woman and her daughter lived making textiles ad we were invited to sit and talk while enjoying some of their homemade corn liquer that admittedly had a punch that would knock you off your seat.  Sales had become slow for the woman as more competition has arisen from Mayans bringing their wares into San Cristobal where they are easier obtained.  In some discussion, she mentioned cooking, and we suggested that she maybe sell some of her food to the buses that came by, as well, possibly adding some of the exotic fruits found in the region to flavor her liquer, and bottling it with nice Mayan designs, to which she was quite excited having not thought of these ideas before.  We helped her write a sign for her door with flavors, etc…in English that she could use because they could not read and write.  They only spoke Mayan, with the daughter knowing a little Spanish.  It would be so cool to return years from now and see her selling the liqueurs with the sign we made!!

old school hamock weaving

Then along the way, stopped into a roaster for Chiapas coffee, just a small, simple house.  Bought some coffee to take along of course!

Small Chiapas roaster along the way

So now the long drive to Merida is under way…where I will take a break, Marisol will return home, and my final days in this sometimes, crazy, often misunderstood, but truly wondrous country filled with genuinely warm people will come to term…

Side note….I am absolutely positive I have more pictures of San Cristobal, but in the interest of posting, I will update with more as soon as I find them!!

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So although I am way past Mexico at this point, I am going to try very hard to update and keep up!!

On the way to Oaxaca, night crept up fast which posed a problem in that on the highway to Oaxaca there was NOTHING.  I had expected little towns here and there, but honestly, it was quite barren, although beautiful.  So with night approaching fast, and the twist and turn mountain roads becoming more challenging, we stopped into a small town to ask for accommodation.  Nothing!  Hmmmm, not good.

But, the girl at the counter mentioned there was a woman with a restuarant down the street that had room available.   She did indeed, hooray!  But wasn’t closing shop for another hour, so with some time to burn, we enjoyed a meal and waited.

The lady hopped in the truck with her grandchildren and we all drove up the road to her home.  She indeed did have a separate addition almost to the home that was quite large.  One bed, but no mind, I was prepared with my own air mattress!  No hay problema!

The home was quite modest, with a good portion being open, that of the kitchen and living room.  She was quite happy to have us, which was nice.  And for 100 pesos, who could argue.

It was a bit of adjustment as the shower was basically a bucket of water with a bowl.   But a memorable experience in that all evening the family was laughing and in the morning, music was playing with a lot of smiles again.  In such simplicity, this family was having a good time.  And it really made me think twice about some of the silly day to day complaints we often have.

"Retro" shower

Also in this first direct experience, I realized that I had missed the opportunity to socialize more, not wanting to disturb the family, when in reality they would have more than likely welcomed the exchange equally. it was an interesting experience as it was, but it could have been more.  But that’s okay, from this point forward, I will indeed look more at every interaction as an opportunity to learn.

Arriving in Oaxaca was like magic.  Dia de los Muertos decor was still out and the crowds were on the streets everywhere.   And although arriving in the evening, the streets were much easier to navigate and the drivers much more pleasant!

First stop was of course to check out some of the holiday festivities still going on to wrap up Dia de los Muertos.  One of the main squares by the hotel had some massive art on display that was a colored sand painstakingly assembled as they were huge and sprawling.   It would be interesting to watch these being created, as they must begin on the inside and work their way out.

Colored sand display in Oaxaca

Must take all night to do these!

And I definitely couldn’t go to Oaxaca without checking out the market for food!  Oaxaca chocolate!  And Oaxaca coffee!  Two of my most favorite things!!

Lunch at the market! That is not a plate, its a tortilla!

Spicy Oaxaca Grasshoppers!

Grasshoppers delicioso!

Oaxaca Chocolate, my favorite!

In the interest of getting current, I am going to keep the rest of this entry short, and rather, share some of the great moments from Oaxaca in pictures!!  But most definitely this is a magical city that I would return to in a heartbeat!  Very hip and crafty, and slong with so many other cities in Mexico, much much safer than some media would have you believe!!

Unfortunately, before leaving, a pool of antifreeze was discovered under the truck, so the stay was extended a couple days.  A mechanic around the corner advised that the radiator had a hole and that it was an amazing feat even that the truck made it the 6 hours or so from Mexico city to Oaxaca!  But I can admit, I was beyond frustrated.

So, over to the radiator repair with every finger and toe crossed to hopefully get back on the road swiftly.  He took the rad out with the truck still parked in the street, ran a test, and sure enough, when the fan broke, it popped a small hole in the rad.  Gheesh, will this ever end?  Luckily, he confirmed he could weld it, and in true Mexican style, got straight to work!  Within 40 minutes, the rad was back in, tested, and no more leaks!  Total cost with new antifreeze, $45!  Well, although not thrilled with laying down yet more cash, this would have been a much more costly affair back home.  And would have definitively taken longer.  So with the truck feeling much better, on to Chiapas and San Cristobal!!

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Actually, it didn’t take any toll at all.

Because although the attempt was made to drive in (honest!) fate had other plans.

From Toluca, the drive to Mexico city was going to be easy. About an hour away or so, hit the road early, and head in with extra help from Hoswin, who is familiar with the streets at least. Everything was going smoothly as we stopped for a bite to eat at some colorful rustic roadside stands and had some delicious (is there any other) Mexico city dishes…

Pitstop for cocina

Just the basics

decisions decisions

So time to confront the road into the City. At an altitude of 7350 feet above sea level, the inclines can be quite steep. While climbing one of the steeper inclines, there was a sudden jerk and slowly the power steering started to go, and the power int he engine started to slow. Time to pull over quickly.

Well, definitely not the entrance I was looking for, but at least there was a mechanic close, and I had Spanish speakers with me. My team went down the road to bring back a mechanic, and upon further inspection, it was found, along with the pool of antifreeze below, that the fan had broken causing the water pump to fail.

The truck was not going anywhere.

He said the truck could be left at his place, but I would have to buy the parts in the city and bring them back the next day so he could install them. Hmmm, leave the truck at his shop, err, his house? ell, not much choice, and I suppose at least its indoors?

So off on the bus we went into Mexico city to try and find lodgings and to begin the quest for parts for the next day. What fun!

So after a night of rest, except for me maybe thinking of my truck about a half hour drive away in a strangers garage, we speak to Hoswin Sr, who advises there a mechanic next to him that he trusts. Okay, that sounds better. But the truck is half an hour away and basically parked until the repairs can be completed.

Some luck!

Seems my insurance will cover a tow into the city, how about that? Nice. So we’ll go with that option. Easy cheesy, right? Well, back on the bus to go meet the tow truck.

We get there, and wait.

And wait.

And wait a bit more.

Okay, at this point, we have to break out the granola bars…and its freezing outside at this point as well! We are able to get the agency on the phone and it seems they can’t see us. So we get that resolved and the flatbed arrives. Only catch, one person too many for the truck.

So the driver allows me to ride in the vehicle on the flatbed into the city, advising me carefully, about 3 times, to put the seat back and NOT to sit up, so no one (cops) can see me through the window.

So as I watched the city whiz by me through the windows, and feel the rocking of my truck on the flatbed, I thought of the ironic fact that I will still have somehow avoided driving into the city.

Finally after a trip that was from the 50kms they would normally provided, the driver was tipped a little extra and the truck was parked outside (yikes) the mechanics place on the street. Hmmm, was this a better option I wonder? But we are assured that the neighborhood is safe and the folks watch out for things.

K, we’ll go with that. Enter sleepless night #2.

So next day, the news is delivered that I am looking at a bit under 400$ for the new water pump, and fan, and another couple belts that snapped in the process (that were just replaced before the trip!). OK, well, at least it will get done tomorrow. Time to go see the city a bit during the wait.

Zocolo

It must be said how clean, safe and amazingly organized the Zocolo was! Perhaps admittedly too much Hollywood had me prepared to run for cover, but I wouldn’t feel any less secure here than walking downtown Toronto. Well, Toronto with 15 million more people….

Down the street from the Zocolo...business as usual

Enterprising vendor...restaurant choices built on a shopping cart...and so delicious

So finally the truck should be done today, we’ll check in a bit later. And go see more of this great city in the meantime of course!

I'll take a water pump and a fan to go please....

So over time what is new Mexico City proper was once sprawling towns around the city, so it is understandable why some neighborhoods have the feel that you have actually left the city and entered, yes, another separate town. The city is split into 16 of these boroughs, or “delegaciones.” Visiting Coyoacan really felt like a day trip. An artsy vibe, cafe culture, leafy streets and of course, plenty of street vendors made it quite enjoyable to simply meander, or sit on a bench and people watch. This again is the greatness of slow travel. No itinerary, no timeline, no rush. Just sit and watch, and pretend to be just one of the local folk walking down the street for a coffee, or dropping off laundry, or chatting with store owner next door. In fact, as majestic as the grand Zocolo is, it is these places where I really feel the heartbeat of the city.

Street in Coyocan

Coyocan cafe culture

While moseying around in Coyoacan, the news was expected anytime of an expected finish time for the truck. Hmmm, actually Hoswin Sr could not unfortunately be reached at all. Several attempts and no answer. Well, not even no answer, the phone was off. Needless to say, not good. Not good at all. But, stay positive.

Finally that evening the text came that he had been at a funeral and the phone was off, but had news that one of the parts was not available until possibly a couple days still. Hmm, can I say, “not good” again? Yet another night of having the truck in the street and trying to sleep, but what can you do? So more time to look around Mexico City!

The next day was spent rather casual as the plan was to try and catch some Day of the dead festivities in the evening. And just walking around in this fast paced city is enough to wear out the day. So at night not far from the Zocolo there was a parade of constant folks with their children dressed up (and many adults dressed up) basically having a great time enjoying being out and being part of the show. And once again, the impressive part was that amidst this great crowd of people, there was an air of safety and fun that was so positive to see. Although it seemed to lack the “day of the dead”ness I was looking for, and resembled more of “Halloween” it was a great time. Perhaps the more traditional celebations were held outside of the center.

Dia de les Muertes fashionistas

Trick or Treat!!

Better than the real Frida!!

OK! So next day and the car must be safe and sound because there was no work otherwise right? Check in and find out that it “should” finally be ready this afternoon! Excitement!

So the day is spent closer t the Zocolo (hotel) in anticipation of going to pick the truck up. There were a couple must see tourist spots to see still before heading out…one though that was impressive, the Angel of Independence. Most likely one of the most recognized monuments in images of Mexico City. And it is majestic, but not just not the monument, but the commanding pride it projects over the streets surrounding the roundabout. Inaugurated in 1910 to commemorate 100 years of independence, it is easy to see why so many people stop to admire. unfortunately, this was one of thocasions when the light just wouldn’t work with me, so apologies for the quality!

Angel of Independence

And the Truck is done! Celebration! Hmmm, one problem. No parking anywhere around the Zocolo, so a final night in the street. One last night to rest uneasy.

In the morning, head over to get the truck, and everything seems to be in order and running well. Whew, what an ordeal, but just so happy the truck is safe and sound. We head out with Hoswin’s father, who had helped along the way with all the arrangements to have a bite to eat before heading off. This particular taco stand had every imaginable piece of pork that I suppose is available. I had, I think, some hind leg? Anyway, although not too bad, it admittedly wasn’t my favorite.

Mystery meat

Goodbyes are said, and tons of thank you’s, and its back in action toward Oaxaca!

But one thing that must be said is the overall genuine willingness to lend a hand from the folks in this leg of the trip. From the tow driver that went out of his way, and almost gave a mini-tour on the drive back. The first mechanic who took time to diagnose the problem and allow the truck to be parked in his garage. To the distant relatives of my friend Marisol that spent I don’t know how much time on the phone running around getting parts to make the repair happen and to ensure my truck was secure in its parking. And even the insurance company folks that were quick and responsive for the tow. There were times, like when Hoswin Sr couldn’t be reached, or I was told that the truck “would be looked after” in the street, etc……that I was a bit nervous. Its easy, especially when in such a “I don’t know if I would go there if I was you” city to let worrying kick in and suspect the worst, but happily, I can report that even in this city, Mexican hospitality shined through. And that’s all a city is after all, people. Shady characters exist everywhere, and even though I felt safe where I was, a prudent caution was always at hand. But sometimes when you put your faith in strangers who are trying to help you out, they come through, no matter where you are. Breaking down in Mexico City felt like the worst possible place a breakdown could happen. But thanks to these folks, it was probably one of the best.

I just wish that was the final breakdown…..more on that in Oaxaca……..

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